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The Dazzling Beauty Of The Shwedagon Paya
By By Tony Jones
The Shwedagon Paya is much more than just another temple. It is the cultural and religious heart of Myamar. Built on a small hill in central Yangon (Rangoon) the great golden dome rises almost 100m and dominates the city skyline. Rudyard Kipling was moved to call it “a golden mystery”. By day, the dome glitters like golden fire. Sunset plays a melody of shades with the monument that never fails enchant. At night, the complex is illuminated by thousands of strategically-placed spotlights. All Burmese are rightly proud of their national monument, and try to visit the site at least once in their lives. Legend has it the main stupa (Buddhist monument in the shape of a dome) is 2,500 years old and is home to eight hairs of Buddha, although archaeological evidence suggests it was built by Mon rulers of the area around 1,000 – 1,400 years ago. Wars, earthquakes and other calamities have taken their toll on the Shwedagon and most of the present structure dates back to 1769. The sacred dome is an enduring symbol of the resilience of Burmese – or Bamah – culture. After each setback, Shwedagon is rebuilt and restored to its former glory. Getting there is easy, as the Shwedagon is just north of central Yangon and is easily the most popular tourist attraction in the city. Every taxi and motor rickshaw driver knows the way. The $5 entrance fee includes the use of a lift to the main floor of the complex, but there’s nothing to stop you following the footsteps of Buddhist worshippers and climbing the steps up Singuuttara Hill to the summit. You have four covered walkways to choose from in addition to lifts at the northern and southern entrances. Visitors are allowed from dawn until early evening. English speaking monks often offer themselves as tour guides in return for a $5 donation. Be advised that all visitors must remove shoes and socks while in the main complex. Marble flooring is very hot around noon and slippery after rainfall, but a mat pathway is provided around the main stupa. As with all Buddhist monuments, visitors are expected to walk clockwise around the complex. While the golden stupa is the central feature of Shwedagon, it is not the only attraction. In the north-western corner is the 23 tonne Maha Ganda bell which dates back to the 1770s. After the first Anglo-Burmese War in 1825, the bell was seized by the British who intended to ship it to their homeland. The bell was dropped in the Yangon River and the British were unable to raise it. The Burmese were allowed to try their luck, and they placed logs and bamboo under the bell until it floated to the surface and was restored to its rightful place. Just beside the Maha Ganda pavilion is a small stupa with a golden spire. Between the eight niches around its base are figures of animals and birds representing the directions of the compass and the associated sign and planet for each day of the week (Wednesday is divided into morning and afternoon. This theme is also displayed on the main stupa. North is represented |
